I have both the Pre-UL and UL models of the black Pro 40s - the LEDs are cool on the UL model, but found I never really look at them as the car's indicators are enough. Thanks! I plan on keeping them for as long as possible! Looking at the lifetime summary - the original relay had 24.4 mWh put through it - and if I had to guess 3500-5500 cycles (not going to count my sessions from the app, and Enelx doesn't allow export of the logs.) in the 5 years I've had it (never higher than 7.2kw through it) - Is this the normal life span for this type of relay? Seems kinda low? How does this relay compared to the relay used in the newer pros? (black, pro 40 with LEDs - also have this one -))Īssuming this relay also lasts 5 years - what is the most likely thing to break/wear out on my unit next - wifi board? main board? - will you be able to supply parts or would be better to gut the box and put in an Open EVSE if the main board failed? Mine (Pro 40, black, no LEDs) - was doing the 5 beeps - Found your post, then found your relays on ebay, and your very nice note on the relay product listing that for the non led Pros (like mine), to get a different relay off the 'big A' for $15 - 2 days later (shipping) and 15 minutes with a Philips screwdriver and 3/8 socket - I was back in business! :) It's a good way to keep memories of my favorite past job alive (the company today is not the same company it was, let's just say), and hopefully prevent some E-waste along the way. I do repairs on JuiceBoxes (my comment buried below at least until it gets more votes), and can repair that for under $200 with a new relay - as long as I can keep buying new relays from the OEM, I'll keep making boards for them and saving fried JuiceBoxes. If you do choose to try this, monitor the temperature of the box after charging for 5, 10, and 20 minutes after fixing it. Continuing to charge with a damaged relay will often lead to a burnout, making repair much more involved/less reliable.

That may unstick it, sure, but the relay damage had already been done. oh, god, please don't do the 'bash it on the side' fix. beeeeep.) while the LEDs flash in time with the beep (this is a '1-beep', meaning a general internal self-test failure) - or, on older firmware (without LEDs), it may be 5 beeps (meaning 'stuck relay'), repeating with a delay between. If you get a stuck relay, it may either be a single repeating beep (beeeeeep. Relay chatter is often how a flaky ground manifests, when it doesn't simply go 'beeeeeeeeee~~!!' (0-beep, a constant never-ending beep) which typically indicates 'no ground'.Ĭheck that your ground is well-connected, that the lower nuts holding the board to the chassis are tight/secure, and that the ground path you have is connected to the service Neutral line at the panel (as 'ground' is a neutral line that doesn't carry current - so that a short-circuit will carry enough current to trip the breaker).Īnd then, probably replace the relay, as it's undoubtedly charred all to heck by now with the chattering! More likely, though, I'd suspect you're seeing a grounding issue on the board - a sketchy ground connection can make the ground detection circuit interfere with the relay circuit (as there's a hardware interlock to it), but not enough for the microcontroller to pick-up that the ground is causing the problem. The relay itself is not capable of 'going nuts' - it's a simple electromechanical device. The JB Pro 75 - black box, no LEDs - uses this relay: īut it's not likely to be your issue. My goal is just to keep JuiceBoxes in service and fix design issues that were discovered years later, so they'll be better than new.

Repairs are almost always under $200, including round trip shipping. Send me a message, anyone with a failed JuiceBox. I've designed and built replacement front panel LED strips (can also be added to any JuiceBox with PCB 8.14.x or newer), relay boards, and power supply circuits to fix issues with 8.12.x and 8.14.x failed -12v, -2.5v, or +5v circuits. I love keeping those memories alive - the best time of my life so far - by fixing JuiceBoxes. those 'v1.x' boxes were my baby (along with a scrappy team of engineers of which I played part of 'glue', not necessarily designing much, but solving problems). Former engineer that worked on every box from the earliest Kickstarter boxes, to the latest black painted JuiceBoxes. They can all be repaired! I specialize solely in JuiceBox repairs as a hobby, and have fixed a pretty large number of boxes and any problem you can imagine (yes, even if you open it and find it caught fire inside.

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